Muffin Musings

It's now the fifth day that my banana muffins have been delicious, so it's definitely time to share the simple recipe. Don't know what the secret is, but they've stayed moist, banana-y (is that an adjective?) and the icing provides a perfect sugar hit every time. A bit disappointing tonight because I'm down to the two un-iced ones, and even though I spread some butter on to add interest, they just weren't the same. They could just as easily be baked in little cases, decorated prettily and called 'cup cakes', which I know are much more the rage at the moment. However, I love the more 'earthy' cakes, and will be true to myself. Anything rustic, fruity, oaty or dense fits my bill - probably because I was addicted to 'Cranks' in my formative years, and so remain addicted to the heavy, indigestible wholemeal confections which passed as 'healthy' in those innocent days. It's just the nostalgia I guess. I remember sitting with my herbal brew amongst the cress filled cheese scones and flapjacks with one friend or another, mulling over life, relationships and how the hell to get out of catering and into something resembling a proper career. I was even working for a good while in a place called 'The Granary' - an upmarket lunchtime 'Bistro' affair which was a bit more 'Sloany' than Cranks, owing to the moneyed pretensions of the Arabian owner, Mr Shah and the Green Park postcode. Nevertheless the wholesome 70's moniker appealed strongly to me and it seemed to be a place where you were accepted, almost fitting the cliche of the 'more like a family' working set-up. I became firm friends with Paul who introduced me to the post modern delights of the Black Cat, Vauxhall Tavern and Piano Bar. We had loads of 'in' jokes, directed mainly at the well meaning commis chef and the customers, who as anyone who has worked in restaurants knows, are fair game. Margaret, the neurotic but motherly head chef and partner in the business would present great steaming trays of goodies for display on the hotplate at around midday. Some of these were truly memorable and had customers coming back for more. Baked Avocados stuffed with prawns and spinach was highly original and legendary, possibly the only example of a hot avocado I've seen successfully served. Strips of belly of pork cooked with plums was also a gastronomic treat. Paul and I would help ourselves to a Tomato juice, already looking dated in terms of being offered as a 'starter' in the 80's - 'almost a meal in itself' we would exclaim camply, which always made us laugh for some unknown reason! The massive cakes, which Margaret would entreat us to offer as 'pudding' would put any domestic goddess to shame. A bit excessive at lunchtime after one of the meals, but a good trade was done in afternoon tea and cake too. All this was good news for a foodie like myself; I've always had an emotional relationship with food, ranging from depriving myself almost totally to wanting to immerse myself in it. Ah, happy days, although of course at the time they weren't - but like most times of confusion and compromise in our youth, they remain indelibly etched. In terms of outcomes - 'Cranks' was sold after David Canter's death in 1981, and subsequently sold on a few more times and re-branded (wonder why?), to expire finally through financial difficulties in 1998. Many blamed the outdated image for it's gradual demise, but as I remain a fan of 'solid natural-coloured oak tables, hand thrown stoneware pottery, heather-brown quarry tiles, woven basket lampshades and hand-woven seat covers'(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cranks_restaurant)it seems a shame to me. The Granary is still going strong, listed a 'traditional' in many guides and with an 'average' rating, (which I would take issue with, certainly if Margaret is still cooking, which I presume she must be as the trademark stuffed avocado is still listed.)I got that 'proper job' I hankered after, though at times I wonder why. Paul also developed a more flamboyant career in a very professional drag act at the Soho Review Bar, though sadly we lost touch. More 'earthy cakes' to follow very soon.

Iced Banana Muffins

• 1 cup spelt flour / 1 cup s. r. Flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 teaspoons baking soda
• 2/3 cup light olive oil
• 1 cup demerera sugar
• 1 & 1/2 cups ripe mashed banana
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1/2 cup chopped nuts (mainly pecans and walnuts)
(Using some lovely retro measuring cups like the one in the pic makes this recipe more enjoyable too)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees (180 electric setting / Gas mark 4.)
Prepare muffin tray.

Sieve flour, salt, and baking soda into a small bowl and set aside

In a separate bowl, combine oil, sugar, banana, and eggs. Add the flour mixture to the wet mixture, not overdoing it on the mixing. Stir in nuts. Fill muffins pans to about 3/4 full. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until done (cover with some foil if they’re getting a bit too brown.)

Make some butter icing by creaming the icing sugar and butter with a wooden spoon (raw icing sugar works really well)

Once cakes have cooled on a wire tray ice them liberally and sprinkle with chopped pumpkin seeds.